Guardian Angels

Well, we made it home safely.  And at the end of this first trip, I need to acknowledge a few guardian angels who have helped make this all possible.

• First and foremost, Tam and Di Murrell in France. Two years ago, they spent time teaching us the basics and helping us get the licenses we needed to do this properly. We would never have gotten anywhere near off the ground without them, and their DVD helps keep it fresh.
• Next, Tom Schneider in Leimuiden and John Martino in Annapolis. They’ve taken us out on boats to gain experience, answered questions with knowledge and good humor, and made us safer in the process.
• To Roger Van Dyken for his book Barging in Europe. It’s been our boating bible. It has a permanent place on our bookshelves in the States and in Europe, and has helped us avoid potentially expensive and dangerous mistakes.
• To the folks at Kempers Marina near Leimuiden on the Westeinderplassen, especially Wilma and Donald. They've taken care of so many things for us this first year, and done it cheerfully, well, and they've taught us a lot in the process.
• Thanks to a host of canal bloggers, and to the contributors and administrators of various internet forums, especially EuroCanals and the DBA, for nurturing the dream.

And to all we’ve met this first year who have helped with friendship, knowledge, and advice. We hope some day to be able to continue the service.

And Almost Time to Leave

Leimuiden     9-20-2011     16:45

We've been sitting in the marina now for over two weeks, organizing, cleaning, and trying to get work done to be ready for next year. The weather has generally been miserable, but this afternoon and evening are beautiful for a change. Too bad we spent it tearing apart the "bedroom."

We got an estimate the end of the week for work we were considering having done, and we're still dizzy from the total. Most of it, anything discretionary, will remain undone or will be done by us later. The big job, conservation on the forward hull, has to be done and we don't have the resources yet to do it ourselves. However, when looking at the total we decided we could save a nice piece of change by emptying the area over the problem before we leave instead of paying the current per hour cost to someone else. Besides, we do not like the sleeping arrangements, so why pay someone to tear it out and then put it back? We've spent the better part of the day with limited tools taking out a VERY solidly built-in bed structure. There's a huge sense of accomplishment that comes along with that, as well as an unexpected side benefit -- we can now close the toilet door!! We had thought that time and moisture had warped the door and we would need a power sander to reshape the door at some point. Turns out, it was just pressure from the bed frame pushing on the wall, not the door itself, and now it's a perfect fit. I think the best feeling, though, is that we are really starting to take possession of this boat and make it ours. I've reconfigured the kitchen cabinets in anticipation of a refrigerator next year. We've taken out the big built-in table in the saloon and will probably replace it with something a bit smaller and more versatile next year, but for right now we have lots more room and a much less congested walkway. And now we actually have the possibility of a bed that's big enough. (And I won't have to sleep pressed up against the cold hull!)

In addition, we've made friends with some of our more intrepid neighbors. There are very few humans around, but the wildlife, particularly the birds, are coming out. There are a few of these funny little black waterbirds with white bits on their faces that are terrified of humans, but they come nagging for bread in the morning now.

 And there is a pheasant family that wanders by in the evening.

The lighting is just too dim to get photos of them, but Dad comes out at other times of the day and suns himself on the local park bench.

We went to see Jeannet yeaterday for what she called a "till next year" party.

Mostly, we just had lunch with her at her summer house,

then hurried to get back to Leimuiden before it turned dark. Now a couple more days of house cleaning and home on Thursday. We do miss the kids, and it's cool and damp enough here in September that we're ready for home.

Anyway, that's life here: slow and winding down for the year.

Almost Over

Leimuiden     9/11/2011     18:10

I guess we have to say that things are slowing to a close here.  Mostly, we’re cleaning, relaxing, and making arrangements to leave the boat here over the winter and have some work done while we’re gone.  Every day seems to involve a long walk, mostly into town to see what we can find for dinner.  It will be nice to get back to a real kitchen!  I was going to try to meet a friend from the States, Karen Thompson, in Amsterdam on Thursday, but it has been very cold and rainy and we decided that staying warm and dry was the better choice.  Saturday was beautiful, today somewhat the same only chillier.  We did get into town today to see the Shantyfest.

We were a little late getting started and were reminded by blaring brass in the distance as a band introduced the day. 

Right now we’re back at the boat, but the shanty choirs have moved to the Leimuiden lift bridge and are giving a mass performance there which we can hear back at the marine.  Even with the doors and windows closed!  We did get a CD, so Adam can listen.

The other fun item that greets us on our nearly daily walks is the local auto repair shop on at the (only) major intersection.

Apparently, it specializes in vintage/antique cars.  There are quite a few that have been restored and are for sale.  Two old Volvos like Bill’s first car, though I suspect that the current asking price is several times what they sold for new.  We saw an Austin Healey coming in for repairs last week, and there are several vehicles that look like they are straight out of French World War II movies.  1950s sports cars, and even a couple of vintage Deux Chevaux delivery trucks!  Other than that, life is very slow.  We will probably take at least one day to visit Jeannet before we leave, and perhaps another to go into a town with more services.  We're just getting things organized for the winter.  So, we'll be seeing you-all soon . . . .

Wind, Rain, and a LOT more Wind

Leimuiden     09-06-2011     20:26

Well, Sunday surprised us, so I guess we shouldn’t be too surprised about today either.  Sunday was gorgeous, probably the best weather we’ve had the whole trip.  Hoards of boaters out enjoying the day, the lake was clogged with them.  Beautiful sun, balmy weather, dead calm water.  Couldn’t ask for better. 

 The photo of the lake doesn’t even begin to tell the story since you really can't see all the boats through the haze.  At times it resembled a rally on the Mall in DC.

Monday was OK.  We got work done, walked into town for a few things and for the exercise, but Sundays most places are closed, and Mondays, especially in the morning, it’s nearly as bad.  Besides, we were waiting for today to see what the village market would be like.

 Today we started off early as the market was advertised to begin at the unheard of hour of 7:30 and to be over by 12:30.  Good thing we went when we did.  The market wasn’t huge, but it managed to cover the necessities and we picked up what we’d need for dinner.  When you don’t have refrigeration, you tend to shop day-by-day as much as you can.  It was a bit windy, which we expected, when be got home and had started to rain, which we hadn’t.  By the time we got settled in, it was pouring, the rain coming in waves, and it hasn’t let up all day. 

The only change has been that the wind has gotten worse, and then worse again.  It is positively squealing through the riggings of the sailboats in the marina and through the whole day we’ve only seen one intrepid, and very foolish, boat on the lake.  The 6 foot or more high reeds that usually hide the pilons at the entrance to the marina are bent almost flat. 

We’re basically doing what we’d be doing in similar circumstances in the States:  hunkering down and staying inside.  If we went outside, we’d blow away.  It’s got to stop sometime, . . . . . doesn’t it??????

Back at Kempers

Leimuiden     09-01-2011     14:13

We’re back where we started the trip.  It is surprisingly nice to be back somewhere familiar. 

Today’s was a good trip.  Only a couple of hours, only two bridges to lift, water as calm and smooth as glass, no wind.  The only problem was the Leimuiderbrug where we arrived just in time for a 15 minute wait.  It was good practice for loitering/trying to wait and keep still in one place.  That can be a surprisingly difficult thing to do on water.  In a car, you just stop.  I’ve always thought about driving a boat as similar to driving a fully loaded semi trailer truck on a frozen lake bed in the driving rain and the wind pushing you every which way.  Not a lot of control at times. 

Kempers was ready for us and apparently happy to see us.  We headed into town for our first real exploration, and to our surprise discovered pretty much everything we need within a 15 minute walk.  Apparently, they’ll even be hosting a sea chanty festival in the next week or so.  The weather forecase has cleared for the market next Tuesday and all seems well here.  Guess it’s time to get down to the time consuming process of boat work, getting this boat ready for the winter, and deciding what we want to have done as far as improvements go.  Will report back when we know.  Till then, best to all . . . .

Alphen a/d Rijn     08-29-2011

Alphen is turning out to be better than we expected.  We’ve moved on from our original stop, stopped here only for a day on the way to electricity and internet, and have just stayed.  We walked into town yesterday and weren’t too impressed, but today took a different route and had a completely different experience.  When we pulled in yesterday, we discovered there was only enough room for 3 boats, and we actually had to block the terrasse of a little café, Café Biljart “De Heul”. 

We spent some time, and money, in the café to hopefully generate good will and discovered a rather lovely, if low brow, local pub.  Great location for cold beer.  Bill used their applegeback and coffee as a reward to himself for checking the batteries.  In northern France, it would be called an estaminet.  There were a lot of the big cargo barges going by, and one truly gorgeous old boat. 

Stocked up on supplies as we don’t know how far we’ll have to go for them once we get back to Kempers. 

Alphen a/d Rijn      08-26-2011

We left Uithoorn this morning as we had been informed that there was a party scheduled for the square where we were docked.  Hope it went well, but it poured all day and most of the night.  We didn’t make our original goal in Alphen, stopping somewhat in desperation

at a free mooring on the NE outskirts of town just to have a place to get out of the driving rain and find a way to escape the cold. 

This was our first experience traveling in really poor weather, and Bill has “discovered” the meaning of “shakedown” cruise.  When you’ve finished cruising, you check how badly you’re shaking, and just how down and depressed you are by your performance that day.  We are on the edge of a small man made lake, and we’ll just have to see how the weather treats us before we decide to move on. 

Uithoorn     08-24-2011

We’ve got moorings today right on the market in the little town of Uithoorn on the Amstel.  All my information says that moorings are restricted to much smaller boats than ours and only then for a couple of days, but they seem happy enough to take our mooring fees and just let us stay.  It’s been a lot quieter since the kids went back to school, and the rules are a lot more relaxed.  We’re a short walk to the town center with facilities, and the showers here are free and just a few steps away.  

Amsterdam     08-22-2011

We’ve enjoyed Amsterdam, perhaps more this year than last.  Saturday we made it to the two markets near the Noorderkerk in the Jordaan district.  Great fun.  Bill didn’t get too stressed by the confusion, and we got some provisions.  Took one day to go to Doorn and visit Jeannet.  It’s been a disappointment that we haven’t seen more of her this year.  We’ll have to make more of an effort to remedy that before we leave.  Monday we went to the market along the Albert Kuipstraat.  That was really a revelation.  It is not the typical market, but rather a long, L-O-N-G street of very small shops that expand their space by moving out into the streets, and it’s done every day but Sunday.  I didn't expect to enjoy it much and was definitely surprised.  There is WONDERFUL spice and cooking odds-n-ends store, a nice yarn and sewing supplies place.  Nothing upscale, but very useable.  Good price on used bikes, where we might just go next year when we decide what we’re going to do about buying.  It’s very much the kind of place used mostly by the locals, and as such the prices are much more reasonable that what we’ve seen so far.  Jeannet has mentioned a Handbag Museum a couple of times, so on a rainy day we spent some time there.  Small, but very cute and unique.  They even had some purses in lace, though the bobbins they had on display were English.  We’ve also made several trips to “the Bookstore.”  It’s the “Schrierstoren“ or crying tower, built in 1480.  It's an old tower building near the waterfront/harbor where women used to stand and cry as their menfolk went to sea for who knew how long and who knew if they’d return.  It’s one of the monuments they always take you past on a tour.

  For us, it’s “the Bookstore.”  The level slightly up from ground has a café/bar that isn’t too bad and has a lot of atmosphere.  The top two levels house a nautical bookstore and map/chart emporium that claims to have been there since 1730.  It has the most complete selection of books, guides, and maps pertaining to our projected travels that we’ve seen anywhere.  It’s a bit awkward to find the first time, but after that it’s a joy.  We’ve purchased pretty much all the information we need to head south next year, and now that’s only a lot of work to deal with Belgian VHF regulations and the paperwork we’ll need for the border crossing.  That may be complicated enough to keep us in the Netherlands next year, but to date the plan is to head south and probably end the summer in France.  We’ll see.  Seems a bit early to be planning next year, but . . . .

Amsterdam - Full Circle

Amsterdam     8/20/2011     19:54

We’ve come full circle after a fashion.  We’re currently moored in the southern environs of Amsterdam where the Amstel meets the Weespertrekvaart.  We first saw our boat only a kilometer or so down the Amstel in the heart of Amsterdam not quite a year ago.  The area is very modern and upscale – with the exception of our marina. 

It is very industsrial and run-down looking and there’s a sad story about that.  This business has been in the family for 80 years, but recently the municipality of Amsterdam has essentially confiscated the land to use as a park for all the high rise office buildings in the area.  All appeals have failed and the owners have to be gone by November 1.  It is the only marina we could find on the southern approaches to the city.  Anywhere else you want to stay, and there are some nice places, must be approached from much further north.  The folks here are really very nice as well, and it’s sad to see them working so hard to find a place to relocate so they can continue. 

We stayed quite a while in Weesp.  We prefer the smaller, quieter towns even if there is much less “to do” in them.  Weesp is a wonderful restful place, and again we had a lovely mooring.  We were in a grassy area, no vehicular traffic at all (well, except boats. . . .), just far enough from town to be a haven, and just near enough to be a nice walk if we wanted anything.  There were lovely terraces for a beer and a bite overlooking the water.  We loved that. 

We also learned to appreciate that, compared to some boats, we have no trouble getting through bridges and locks.

  There was one “party boat”, Moby Queen, that went by twice a day, and we rather thought they’d have to grease her up good to get her through. 

Compared to that, something our size looks easy!!

All the same, we’ve enjoyed our day-and-a-half so far in Amsterdam.  Today we went into the city for the market by the Nieuwekerk and the Lindengracht.  It was great.  This was the first really extensive market that in any way reminded us of the markets in France.  Just about everything you could want, and it went on for blocks.  Didn’t get any photos, we were too busy looking for dinner and a few other things.  It took hours and afterwards we really needed to sit and eat (yeah, FEED BILL again).  The views from the canal terrace were almost too stereotypically Dutch to be real. 

While we were dining, along comes a “Pedalsaloon.”  A cart of some sort, rigged out so there was one guy (new meaning for the term designated driver) in front steering the contraption, and room for a dozen or so others in back on either side of a bar and pedaling furiously to propel this THING down the street. 

It was great.  Only the Dutch . . . .       Jeannet had told us that there is a big concert tonight on the canals here, one that’s televised and everyone watches.  We could see the boats already arriving, and the streets in that area were already being closed off at noon.

We knew we would be too exhausted long before concert time to stay, so we walked over to the Beginhof to sit for a while.  Then back home.  Even Bill is getting into the habit of calling the boat home, I guess because it is. 

Down the Vecht

Maarssen     8/8/2011     13:20

 Today we went out for the first time and played with “the big guys.”  Took a shortcut on the Amsterdam-Rijn Kanaal. 

We spent 10.5 km, or about an hour, on a nice wide waterway with the big Rhine barges you think about more in Germany.  The canal was deep enough and wide enough that, between poor weather and waves from passing freighters, the chop and wash was more like the Chesapeake on a poor day than anything we’ve seen over here.  The beauty of it was that there were no locks, or bridges, that had to be opened, so it was a straight shot right through.  Now we’re going to take a break, have something to eat (FEED BILL) and then try to find the town center so we can replenish supplies and find out what there is to do here besides gawk.  We plan to take a bus into Utrecht at least one of the days we stay here.  We really have no idea how long that might be --- what else is new??  However, we are now on the Vecht River.  Several rivers are described as the most beautiful in the Netherlands, and all have their charms, but the Vecht is the one most associated with that title.  So, photos will follow . . . .

Maarssen     8/9/2011     5:00

Malicious mischief.  Someone took our mooring lines off the mooring posts while we’ve been asleep. 

Luckily, there is no wind or current so no damage was done and the lines were reset quickly and easily.  Hardly even any inconvenience.  It is a bit disconcerting to have it happen only 6 weeks into our first boating experience, though.  One hears about this sort of thing occasionally (usually in France), but most folks never have it happen to them.  It can be quite dangerous in the wrong circumstances.  There had been an altercation earlier in the evening between a boat trying to dock and some men fishing in the mooring space, serious enough that the police were called.  Perhaps we were just a more inviting target for retaliation.  Spoke to the authorities about it, but they could only ask for more police patrols at night.  Not good . . .

 Maarssen & Utrecht     8/10/2011     16:00

 Found the bus and took it into Utrecht today.  I was very disappointed not to find the needlework store Jeannet took us to our first visit here in 1993.  We did have lunch at one of the iconic restaurants along the canal level.

The business street level is one level up from that. 

Formerly, the warehouse entrances were at canal level, the streets were raised well above.

It would have been nice to have a good Dutch meal, but all the restaurants are ethnic!!  Lots of pizza, an Arab/Lebanese place, Argentine steak houses abound.  (Don’t get me started on the Dutch version of Tex-Mex!!!)  Wandered in the old city for most of the day.  There are some lovely examples of old buildings,

and just the age of the cobblestones, the bridges, and the building construction is mesmerizing.  And we were tickled that we were able to negotiate the transportation system like natives.  Also ran into Vickie and Max, two of the Australians from Haarlem/Gouda, after we returned to Maarssen, so Bill had someone to talk to.  I almost have him convinced to take Dutch classes at the Belgian Embassy this year.  Anyway, we head for Breukelen (Brooklyn) tomorrow. 

Breukelen     8/11/2011     13:00

Interesting day traveling today.  There were a few challenges out of the ordinary and, surprise of surprises, we handled them fairly well!  It helped that the Vecht widened a bit after we left Maarssen and we had more room to maneuver.  Breukelen is a tiny little town in an area that the Dutch come to for country walks and bike rides.  They have also converted some of the old houses built as country homes by the bankers and diamond merchants into schools and venues for conferences

and weddings.  The weddings come complete with horsedrawn carrages.  (And the horses are those lovely small black Fresian draft horses!)

Very peaceful.  We’re really starting to treasure that.

Weesp     8/13/2011     14:51

Breukelen only lets you stay 2 x 24 hours!  So, we were on the move again today to Weesp where they’re letting us stay 5 days.  However, we have ELECTRICITY!!!!!  Weesp itself is a cute little town just east of Amsterdam and just south of the Ijsselmeer (formerly the Zuiderzee).  We are moored on a quiet grassy bank,

the only noise is the ducks arguing with each other and occasionally the 12 year old Golden Retriever (Kaspar) on the boat behind us.  Today’s triumphs:  we got out of a tricky mooring in Breukelen, and into an even trickier one here.  No running into other boats, no scraping paint off the hull, no lost fenders.  The Vecht lived up to its reputation as a lovely place.

My favorite was a town called Vreeland,

unfortunately no moorings or reason to stop there other than that it was gorgeous.  We took another shortcut on the Amsterdam-Rijn Kanaal and had to deal with more of the big freighter barges this time.

Probably because it wasn’t Sunday.  All you have to do is stay out of their way, but they sure do throw off a lot of energy in their bow waves.  Doors flying open, drawers coming off their slides, the fire extinguisher banging against the wheelhouse wall like a jackhammer.  We’re also learning how to handle this boat in some fairly miserable weather.  Dutch friends have been apologizing since we got here for the poor weather, though I can’t see what control they have over it.  We’re just enjoying learning to live in a different environment. 

Weesp     8/14/2011     18:40

Walked into town today to have a late lunch.  Sat on the quai just inside the lock into the town center and watched the boats coming through.

Perhaps we’re getting to the dangerous cockey stage, but we’re beginning to notice boaters who handle their vessels much worse than we do.  You often hear the comment “Everyone in the Netherlands has a boat.”  Maybe not quite, but it certainly seems that way on weekends.  We were sitting across from the church in the center of town. 

We realized, after a few moments, that there was a docking stage just in front, evidently with blue signs reserving the area for parishioners arriving by boat!!!

Click on the photo and maybe it will enlarge enough for you to see the signs. That really makes you realize just how deeply the water is ingrained into this culture.   

Tot later.